|
||||||||||||||||||
To solve structural problems involving the foundation - water leakage, dampness and other moisture problems - you should insulate it from the exterior (and not from the interior). At the same time, exterior insulation makes foundation repair and waterproof much easier, and allows the installation of a foundation drainage system, if necessary.
Due to these cons, if there isn’t structural problems with the basement, you can try to solve the problem of moisture or coldness through other means: see, Solving the problem of cold basements without insulation Another way of minimizing costs and problems is to adopt a partial depth insulation of the exterior basement walls.
In this method, the exterior basement insulation involve two pieces of insulation material: a vertical and an oblique one. The first (with 1 feet / 30 cm height or more) is installed below ground, against the outside wall of the basement; the second (with 2 feet / 60 cm or more) is installed under-ground, at the bottom of the first piece of insulation, with a convenient (20º/30º) oblique angle.
This method is
suitable for basements without cracks, water leakage and
dampness at its
bottom, and if the ground
isn't saturated with
water. It's mainly a good method in dry and moderate-rain
climates, where there is no problems with water-saturated soils.
Common and recommended insulation materials include:
- Extrude
expanded polystyrene (higher density type) See on this matter: R-values for Basement Insulation
The insulation of the exterior basement walls involves six major steps: 1) digging around the foundation, 2) sealing and damp-proofing the walls 3) installing the rigid insulation 4) installing a flashing 5) installing a protective covering on the exposed parts of insulation and 6) backfilling the excavated area with soil. 1 - Excavating around the foundation The digging should go down to the limit of footings and not more. Be careful with pipes, electric lines, telephone hook-ups, etc. The width of the trench should be sufficient to work in it, though not bigger than the strictly necessary. 2 – Sealing and damp-proofing the walls Clean the surface of the foundation. Repair holes, cracks and other damages, and allow repairs to dry. Penetrations should be sealed and removed. Apply waterproofing – typically two coats of a waterproofing compound – all over the wall. Check drainage tiles, repairing them if necessary. If there is no drainage system, it’s a good idea to install one. 3 - Installing the rigid insulation Applying the insulation depends a lot of the materials and soil conditions. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing. Measure and cut the insulation board to the desired height (typically, from the top of the footings to the flashing…). Start at one corner and keep the insulation boards tightly glued to the wall. Use the soil to held insulation in place, and also the flashing, fasteners and washers, at the top. 4 – Attaching a flashing to keep water from getting behind the insulation The flashing allows the insulation to extend beyond the line of ground, protecting the insulation and the basement foundation from water. It also helps keep the insulation in place and provides a neat junction. Discuss its location and the type of flashing with an expert. 5 – Installing a protective covering on the exposed sections of insulation The insulation should be protected from sunlight, lawn and garden tools, etc. A number of materials can provide that protection, including cement brick, grade plywood or treated siding of fiberglass panels, vinyl, aluminum… 6 – Backfilling the hole Cover the drain tiles (made of perforated plastic pipe) with adequate clean gravel.
If possible,
use free-draining soil if the existing is a poorly draining
type. After backfilling the hole, ensure a proper run-off of
rainwater. It’s important to provide drainage away from the
insulation. See: Gutter, downspouts and
surface drainage.
|
|
| | |||||||||||||||
| © Energy-Savings.com | | All rights Reserved by E. Reisinho.